Black Isle Royale

This is the second of the Isle Royales. A less time intensive finish and less exotic handle material brings the price down to $130 (SOLD) plus shipping with the IWB loop. (SOLD)

The first image, showing the right side of the knife in a full view, is the shot after I rewiped things down to remove smudges and gave the front of the handle a better buffing.

The first Isle Royale

The first of my new Isle Royale pattern is now for sale. Featuring a bright but not full mirror finish, Oregon Maple Burl wood handles stabilized by K&G, 1/8″ 1084 from Aldo Bruno and my own heat treating. This is about 7.5″ long overall with just under 3.5″ of blade. The scales are about 1/8″ thick for a slim and light knife. The mark is just etched into the steel but not darkened for a subtle but clear look that’s easier to see in person than on camera.

The blade profile is a modified Wharncliffe. I’ve incorporated a small but distinct curve in the last portion of the edge. While a thin blade and ground to a fairly thin edge, the slight upward curve helps retain sufficient steel at the tip for strength. This minimizes one of the few weaknesses of the Wharncliffe design.

Price is $150 with the small tek-lok as shown. Click here for the Bladeforum’s sale thread.

The first Isle Royale, with Oregon Maple Burl handles.

The first Isle Royale, with Oregon Maple Burl handles.

The first Isle Royale, with Oregon Maple Burl handles.

Isle Royale Knives

–Preliminary pictures via cell phone, better images to come, along with sheaths and prices–

The Isle Royale is one of my new designs. Essentially it’s a Nubilus with a different blade profile. It’s very similar to the original blade flipped upside down, but not quite. I consider it a modified wharncliffe design suited for a wide variety of uses. These are roughly 8″ long overall.

Both of these are 1084 steel from Aldo Bruno, 1/8″ thick with 1/8″ thick scales. The pins are 1/8″ mosaic and there are no liners. The black version is satin finished with a scotchbrite belt and then acid blackened, though the spine and profile around the tang are not a satin finish. The wooden handled knife features stabilized Oregon Maple Burl from Itsaburl in, of all places, Oregon. It’s truly incredible wood and these preliminary images do it no justice at all. The wood was stabilized by K&G, one of the top stabilizers in the world. The blade is a semi-gloss finish well suited to real world use.

Chef’s Knives – Reshoot – sold

I’m reposting the chef’s knives on and did a reshoot so here are some nicer photos. Please contact me here or on the bladeforums thread if you are interested in purchasing either of these. The box elder burl handled knife is $150 sold and the G10 handled knife is (sold) $100. Once the box elder sells these are done for a while. I have one more kitchen knife to make but it’s an ordered piece and I won’t be doing any extras. Get it while it lasts.

Reshoot of the box elder chef's knife

Reshoot of the box elder chef's knife

Reshoot of the box elder chef's knife.

Reshoot of the g10 handled chef's knife

Reshoot of the g10 handled chef's knife

Stainless Update

Stainless blades are in the pipeline. I profiled four Nubilus, two Isle Royales (the middle sketch in the previous post), a Lycaon and a Dirus (top sketch) yesterday from the CPM154 I got from Aldo Bruno. I have two more Lycaons and two of the still unnamed third sketch to go.

My grinder was slightly delayed but I should stay on schedule to get them ground and out for heat treating.

Some design sketches

Three concept sketches for new knives.

I regularly play around with ideas on paper, these three are designs I plan to turn into steel. Nothing revolutionary, the top one is an obvious variation of my Lycaon design and the smaller of the other two shows the design’s foundation as a Nubilus. I hadn’t noticed just how much the blade looks like an inverted Nubilus blade, but a nice curve is a nice curve. The larger version takes things into slightly different territory. I’ve been trying to come up with a sleek, slim, elegant but aggressive design for a while but couldn’t quite pin down how I wanted it to look. This is the first idea that made it past the first stages of drawing.

I’m not sure if I’m going to include the finger swell or not. They seem to be a popular design element these days, but they’re not something I’ve ever been a fan of personally. My current plan is to make one smooth and one with the finger swell to start. After a bunch of folks handle it I’ll decide whether to include it by default or just save it as an available option.

New Burl – Oregon Maple

I picked up some burl to try from another source. This time I decided to try something I haven’t used before, Oregon Maple. It’s more of a rich brown, almost a chocolate brown, tone with the usual swirls and highlights of nice burl. I’ll have a sample pic in a bit, just waiting on the danish oil to dry so I can give it a light buff. Since I was just testing the waters I only have two sets, one 1/4″ thick and one about 1/8″ thick.

For the curious, this wood is from:

Burl Source Web Store

They’re a well known and liked provider of fine woods for craftsmen and in the last couple years have started giving knifemakers some love too.

Kitchen Knife Update – More pics

Box Elder Burl with Mosaic

Black G10 with mosaic

Black G10 with mosaic

As promised, some additional images. I’ll take some more of the box elder once I clear coat it, since the tones will shift a bit in the process. It’s a lovely piece of wood. The strong contrast is because the piece was dyed to enhance the burl pattern.

The G10 knife is available and ready to go. The G10 makes an excellent kitchen knife handle since it’s almost indestructible and won’t be phased by most cleaners or repeated dunkings in hot water. The box elder, once clearcoated, is durable but is still not as indestructible as G10. Think Acura NSX versus Honda Accord. One doesn’t handle getting banged around as well but has a lot more visual appeal. The other is your daily driver that regardless of conditions.